36 Hours in Napa Valley
Congratulations! You’ve taken the first step towards your boozy self care treatment by planning a trip to glorious Napa Valley.
I’ve traveled all over the world and I have to say that Napa Valley is one of my most favorite places to visit. And, one of the most expensive. If I went dollar for dollar against Paris I’m sure Napa would have cost me more. But, it’s one of the most traveled places in the world and certainly in the US.
Napa Valley is an incredibly popular destination and also an incredibly overwhelming trip to plan for first timers. Even the second time I went was still a bit overwhelming. Now that I’ve been numerous times and have planned dozens of trips for friends, family and even corporate events, I’ve decided to turn this into a business of my own. That’s right! I’m my own boss! (which is liberating and gratifying but also comes with a dash of sheer terror. A sprinkling, if you will)
I remember the first time I visited Napa Valley. I had been to Europe loads of times and drank lots of wine so I really thought I would not be impressed. I have never been so delightfully proven wrong. Napa really gives me the same feeling of being in the Loire Valley in France. In fact, I liked being in Napa Valley better than France. No shade to France and their wine, I really love it!
When I planned my first trip to Napa I almost lost my shit. There are over 900 wineries in wine country (Sonoma and Napa combined). I had no idea where to start. So I watched a bunch of movies (Bottle Shock is my absolute favorite) just to get a starting point. I spent hours upon hours researching and planning. I was at the point of paralysis by analysis. I ended up planning just a few places that were on my bucket list and left the rest up to fate.
When I arrived I got the lay of the land and then just ended up calling a few places to see what they had available. Some were full and some smaller boutique vineyards had available tastings.
These days it’s easy peasy for me to plan a trip to Napa Valley. Every time I go I try to visit a new winery, although I do have my favorites. (Artesa and Oxbow Public Market)
During one couples trip we all decided we wanted to do something different. We grabbed a bunch of blankets and drove out to Bodega Bay hoping to find a great spot to picnic. We couldn’t believe what we found. We stopped into the tasting room at Sonoma Coast Vineyard, bought a bunch of wine, squatted on the grassy knoll next to their tasting room and picnicked with the most stunning view of the bay. They even gave us glasses to enjoy our delicious bottles we just purchased. It was probably the most fun I’ve ever had in wine country.
Pro tip: Drink lots of water and pack lots of snacks (peanut butter pretzels are the best). This is Napa Valley, not Las Vegas. If you want to get smashed and act a fool, save yourself about five grand and head about 600 miles south.
Day 1: Arrival
We landed at SFO late morning which gave us plenty of time to grab our bags and our car before heading to lunch at The Trident in Sausalito. We sat on the patio so we could enjoy the incredible sights and smells of the breeze off the San Francisco Bay. After we stuffed ourselves with oysters and rosé we headed to our Airbnb in Sonoma.
Pro tip: bring a sweater or light jacket for lunch at Trident. The breeze off the bay can be a bit chilly.
We checked into our amazing Airbnb in Sonoma. Picking your room is the absolute best. Everyone tries to pretend they don’t care but I like how everyone always tries to be the first person in the house too.
Pro tip: if you’re traveling with multiple couples, book your flight so that you arrive with the person who booked the house.
After checking in to your pimp villa, head into downtown Napa for provisions at Oxbow Public Market. The Ferry Building’s high-ceilinged little sister has a serious concentration of Bay Area restaurants (plus shops) under one roof. This place is pricey but it’s such a fun experience and everything is guaranteed to be delicious. You can even come back here later in your trip to slurp oysters at Hog Island Oysters, order the famous duck tacos at C Casa, or share some sushi rolls at Eiko’s. Don’t miss the Oxbow’s newest tenants, Bar Lucia, a rosé and sparkling wine bar; Loveski Deli; and San Francisco’s El Porteño Argentine restaurant; Milestone Provisions, a butchery, eatery, and creamery in one. My favorites in the market are Hog Island Oysters, The Olive Press and Ritual Coffee Roasters. And, Model Bakery. And, Fieldwork Brewing Company (that’s right, I said it. Brewery!).
Take back your groceries and head to dinner or walk 500 feet to Mark Herold Tasting Lounge. Seems like an obvious choice. Beautiful Cabernet Sauvignon, truly.
Now you’re ready for dinner.
If you’re staying in Sonoma, have dinner at The Girl & The Fig. It’s low key (for wine country). The service and the food are consistent and delicious. I enjoyed the duck confit very much.
Day 2: Saint Helena
If you’ve never done anything in wine country other than hop from tasting to tasting, try something slightly different. By different, I mean try a tasting that’s disguised as an activity.
Barrel Blending at Conn Creek is perfect for that.
The Barrel Blending Experience is the best way for wine lovers of all levels to enjoy a one-of-a-kind Napa Valley wine tasting experience. You’ll get an opportunity to learn about, taste, and blend wines from the many distinctive regions that make up Napa Valley. You’re invited to play winemaker for a day and take home the fruit of your labors — literally!
Next up is lunch at The Model Bakery. This place has the best English muffins in the world — and some of the world’s best breakfast sandwiches made with said muffins. They’re so delicious that Oprah has admitted to having them flown to her house. But that’s not all: The pastry case is stacked with buttery croissants, banana bread, cookies and bread pudding. Model Bakery has grown from its original digs to two additional locations in Napa (by Oxbow) and Yountville, but several specialty items (like avocado toast on sourdough bread with a hard-boiled egg and crispy bacon YUM YUM YUM) are only available at the flagship bakery in St. Helena (lucky you!).
If you’re wondering where all the tastings are, you’re delusional because they’ve been happening this entire trip but you’re not only sitting and sipping, you’re actually having an experience and learning about the bazillion dollar industry that you’ve come to enjoy. If you’re not buyin’ what I’m sellin’ calm your tits we’re about to experience Pride Mountain.
There are three tastings at Pride Mountain. They range in price from $30-60. We chose the Estate Experience for $30 and it was lovely. It’s advertised as being a unique and educational opportunity to learn about mountain viticulture and winemaking during a progressive tasting of our current release wines. We loved the chill vibe and had a great time with our seat mates who were visiting from Australia.
If you’re wondering where to spend your last evening in Napa Valley, PRESS Restaurant, Saint Helena is a great choice. Press has been a Napa Valley fine dining staple for 15 years, best known for its meticulously sourced cuts of aged beef that pair well with a big Napa Cabernet Sauvignon and black truffle hash browns. Miraculously, chef Philip Tessier (a Le Bernardin, Per Se, and French Laundry alum) has raised the bar even higher. Whatever you do, don’t sleep on the ricotta gnudi or sweet and sour pig ears for apps. Press also has one of the best and most comprehensive Napa Valley exclusive wine lists around with more than 1,800 selections. Although the Cabernet Sauvignon is my favorite, you really can’t go wrong with their local Napa Pinot Noir selection. Or, any wine pairing.
Departure
Before you head out of town, have breakfast at Black Bear Diner just barely outside of downtown Napa. And since the calories are listed right on the menu (thanks CA for starting that trend) you know exactly how much to eat to make you pass out on the plane ride home.
A trip to Napa Valley isn’t all about drinking wine (although we did plenty of that). It’s really about learning the history of the land and the soil, being told what made California wine country famous internationally (1976 Judgment of Paris), and meeting new friends at a wine tasting.